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Do Skis Get Blunt?

swader999
34 replies
2d12h

I'm a ski race parent. I tune every couple of days on snow. My U12 boy skis on 0.5 degrees base bevel, three degrees side edge. Here he is on a firm course at his last race this year: https://youtu.be/RWYO2ib-qe8?si=CRH01ViFUFApSx_o

Setting that up is difficult but it's pretty easy to maintain once it is there. Side cut.com has great advice and tools.

If you are on groomers and ski on decent skis, not powder boards, it is worth getting a tune.

For ski racing and carving on man made snow, it is very similar to ice skating, you'll want to tune very frequently.

creato
20 replies
2d12h

You can see in this video that the interaction of the ski with the snow is much more than just the edge of the ski. I really doubt the fine tuning of the edge matters that much.

I don’t think there is any objective way to settle this debate. I think if you enjoy tuning skis, go for it. I like sharpening knives and tools so I get it. But I don’t bother with my skis.

amluto
14 replies
2d11h

It sounds entirely straightforward to do a randomized, blinded test of freshly sharpened vs unsharpened skis. (Okay, the skier can feel the edge or look closely, but a cooperative skier could just not do that for the purpose of the experiment.)

strstr
12 replies
2d10h

You could also sharpen just one edge of each ski (opposite edges across the pair), then put the skis on random feet. Then see if they can tell which edges are sharp! Most of a typical skier’s weight is supported by the inside edge of the downhill ski while carving.

Youth racers tend to ski with one set of edges on the inside for training, and the other edges inside for racing (under the theory that the inside edges take more of a beating. Who knows if that is accurate). If you ever see youth racers on slalom skis (which are chiral, since they have tips that deflect ski gates), you’ll often notice that the skis are on the “wrong” foot.

oldandboring
9 replies
2d4h

True enough at younger levels but as you move up in age and skill, the weight distribution between the downhill and uphill ski gets closer to 50/50. What you're saying has a kernel of truth and young skiers are still taught downhill ski as a fundamental but shaped skis have really changed the game on this.

__mharrison__
4 replies
1d20h

Tele is pretty close to 50/50.

oldandboring
3 replies
1d16h

Free the heel, free your mind?

__mharrison__
2 replies
1d14h

And make sure you tell everyone about it... ;)

__mharrison__
0 replies
1d4h

Nice

swader999
3 replies
2d2h

No, you never weight each ski evenly. Former WC mogul skier here and even in moguls there's a slight difference in weight on each ski in a turn. Shaped hour glass skis make it easy to turn but you still need more weight on the outside downhill ski.

oldandboring
2 replies
2d2h

That's why I said "closer to 50/50".

Also, that's awesome that you competed WC moguls. I probably saw you compete depending on when you were active, and we almost definitely know some of the same people.

swader999
1 replies
2d1h

Awesome! I might be even older and boring though. 92 was my last cup year.

oldandboring
0 replies
2d

Oh boy, yeah pretty old :) There is one person I know (but not very well) who you likely encountered (Canadian, in fact) but they didn't make it to the WC until 94 I believe.

swader999
1 replies
2d3h

In a race, my kids race edge is marked on each ski and he only has those two edges close to his big toes on his race runs. If you don't ski, your a genius if you can figure out how and why this would work I'd imagine.

matsemann
0 replies
1d23h

I used to paint an arrow pointing to the left on one ski and the right on the other. Then I would for instance ski <--> during the day, and -><- during the race.

swader999
0 replies
2d11h

Yes! And coaches will typically pull the kids from training if they show up dull. They'll go in the race shack and tune their edges and visually improve to all after fixing them.

swader999
2 replies
2d11h

Edges matter a lot for racing and carving, impossible to learn and progress without tuned skis and propper angles. Like going to ice hockey practice with dull skates, it just doesn't work. Parents obsess over wax at this age but it actually only adds a bit of speed, but boots and edges are critical.

xarope
1 replies
2d11h

I was going to mention this too; I used to have my hockey skates sharpened regularly, but I don't recall ever needing ski edges sharpened. Waxed, yes. Sharpened, no.

swader999
0 replies
2d11h

Higher level ski racing uses water injection. They'll hook up the snow making water hoses to a bar that shoots water right into the snow. So it really becomes a 3D hockey rink.

oldandboring
0 replies
2d4h

Respectfully, this is incorrect. That would be like telling someone who games competitively that their GPU and CPU don't matter. Once you can tell, you can tell.

If you gave a blind test, same exact skis but varied the tuning, most serious racers would be able to tell you what changed after a few turns. Edge or base bevel angles, wax, tuned or de-tuned. I haven't raced in years and I wager I would do pretty well on that test.

matsemann
0 replies
2d10h

I really doubt the fine tuning of the edge matters that much.

Try it and see.. Note that when you race, you often do it on watered+salted hills where hundred people have followed the exact same track. Really icy.

It also might be a thing we're you're just not good enough to notice. I don't mean that as a slight, but seriously changing the angle of the edge of a ski is basically like racing a completely different pair. The feel of how it engages can quickly become too aggressive or lax.

strstr
7 replies
2d12h

Do you mean .5 or 5 for the base bevel? 5 is quite far off the snow.

swader999
6 replies
2d12h

0.5 for base bevel with three degrees for the side is very aggressive for his age but his cuff alignment is dialed and he can handle it.

strstr
5 replies
2d11h

Thanks for the correction. I had just never heard of 5° degrees as a base bevel. Not sure why you seem defensive. Isn’t 0.5° (or lower) the factory tune for slalom skis? Might only be a thing for U16+.

swader999
4 replies
2d11h

All good, I didn't type it correctly initially. A lot of coaches in the past have been critical of those angles he's been on so I was probably anticipating it lol. Most kids that age are likely 0.75 and two degrees for Sl. And yeah older Fis kids are maybe trying zero base and perhaps 4 degrees on water injected surfaces.

strstr
3 replies
2d11h

Tuners look at me so strangely when I ask for 0°/4° lol. I can’t imagine dealing with coaches.

swader999
2 replies
2d10h

Yeah that is dialed like an F1 car and four degrees will shorten the life of the edge a bit. Some will do that much just under boot but go 3 at tip and tail. Another approach is to never debur and file every run. Saw that hack at a Fis GS race this year that was water injected by an over zealous course crew.

strstr
1 replies
2d10h

I’ve heard the lifespan thing before and never understood it. It’s still 86 degrees wide.

swader999
0 replies
2d5h

I guess it's because you cut away more initially so there's less edge to work with from that point forward.

oldandboring
2 replies
2d5h

I can tell you are very proud of your U12 boy and from that video, you should be. His fundamentals are rock solid. His fore-aft is good, his timing is excellent, he's clearly prepared for the course well in inspection. He's generally not reaching to cross-block, as evidenced by the strategic inside-clear at the top of the pitch. Really, really strong.

swader999
1 replies
2d4h

Thanks and you know what you are looking at!

oldandboring
0 replies
2d4h

I drink and I know things.

Loic
1 replies
2d8h

Son is U16, same 87/0.5 and if I am not doing them well, he will tell me as he can feel the difference. Of course, we have race and training skis, this helps having the race skis very well tuned.

Your son is good :-)

swader999
0 replies
2d5h

Thanks, he's been working really hard at it since 3 years old! We're at Mt Hood this week so tuning is still a thing even today lol.

U16 is quite a step up, the courses get quite challenging at that level.

gorbypark
31 replies
2d12h

It totally depends on the type of skier and the type of skis you have. I worked in the ski industry and thus lived and worked in ski towns for 15 years. If you are a ski racer, tuning edges matter. If you aggressively ride groomers all day, then they will matter. Riding big fat powder skis everyday, inside and outside of the resort? More or less doesn't matter. Are you a park rat that only ever skis the park? Those folks will actually detune their edges on purpose.

If you are a beginner / intermediate skier (someone who never to rarely carves a ski), edges on the blunter side of things can actually help you out. Sure, it's a bit more sketchy on ice, however just doing a "slide turn" is going to be much easier. It will take less force to make your skis point where you want them too, making you much more confident. It's one of the reasons they put beginners on smaller skis. Less edge = easier turning.

I have skis that were kept dry and haven't been sharpened in years and ski perfectly fine and it's exactly how I want them.

sgt
12 replies
2d11h

Yeah, I grew up with skis, but I don't think I have ever heard of anyone sharpening the edges. Waxing the skis yes.

madaxe_again
4 replies
2d10h

I grew up with skis too, and my dad and I would sharpen our GS skis together in the garage every Friday evening, for a weekend of racing. Used to finish them with a sealskin strop, literally as sharp as razors - for the first few runs.

matsemann
3 replies
2d10h

Same. Kind of a nice ritual and I look back at that time spent together fondly. I also feel a bit sorry(/grateful) for all the time my parents spent on this. Driving me ungodly early so I could get to a race a few towns over, and then waiting there all day for me and my team mates to do our thing and then drive us home.

You really do notice the difference on well maintained edges. On groomed slopes I can ski anything, and it doesn't really matter. But I don't think most people realize how icy a race track can become.

sgt
2 replies
2d10h

They got to spend time with you, which is its own reward. I only realized this now when I got a kid (he's 3). Never thought about it that way before. Do you have kids?

matsemann
1 replies
2d10h

Yes, that is true.

And no, no kids. But if I do, I'm thinking I'd like them to do something not as expensive and time consuming. But with my own 50 days skiing this winter, it might just end up being skiing anyways, heh.

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

Skiing is a great family sport. You get to build cameraderie together exploring a big mountain. It's quite an undertaking for a parent and yes, expensive. Most other sports, the parents are typically just watching.

skittlebrau
2 replies
2d6h

Tell me you don’t ski in New England without telling me you don’t ski in New England.

jcgrillo
0 replies
2d5h

I grew up in VT skiing and snowboarding 4 days/wk, edge tuning was a daily ritual and base prep was about once a week (although probably should have been twice)

buildsjets
0 replies
2d4h

Hah, as a child I fractured my skull on a 7'th grade school trip to Brodie Mountain. Maybe somewhere around 1988? A quick check on Google Maps will show that Brodie Mountain is only 2600 feet high and very near Albany NY, therefore is unlikely to produce good skiing conditions. It turns out that a 15 minute lesson from your math teacher is insufficient to develop the skills necessary to stop on a completely iced over intermediate trail, so I did the snowplow directly into a rack of ski equipment going 30mph or so and wrecked myself.

rhcom2
1 replies
2d10h

This might be location dependent because in the Northeast US getting your edges sharpened almost every season isn't rare.

AmVess
0 replies
2d9h

I was a scrub level skier, and had mine sharpened a few times a season. Slopes varied between powder and crusty, wind blown snow. Hitting crusty snow at mach 17 on dull skis, and you'd end up doing a high performance uncontrolled flight into terrain routine.

watwut
0 replies
2d11h

They do it in services centers for few bucks and in a few minutes. It actually does massive difference on icy slopes - it makes difference between being helpless and being able to control where you are going.

denhaus
0 replies
2d10h

It’s a racing thing, mostly. Most shops offer a basic service for a machine wax + edge sharpening so that’s when most people get it done (even if they don’t really know what they’re paying for)

bamboozled
8 replies
2d11h

"Riding big fat powder skis everyday, inside and outside of the resort? More or less doesn't matter."

Until you stop off at the bar on a Sunny day and ride home on dusk once everything has frozen again, then you'd be like "oh I wish I didn't tell everyone not to keep their edges in decent shape", as you fly off the cliff edge.

denhaus
2 replies
2d10h

I laughed out loud at the “fly off a cliff edge”

On the real however, getting down the mountain safely after dusk etc with dull vs. sharp edges will likely only affect intermediate skiers. Beginner skiers are going to crash no matter what they’re riding if on steep and icy terrain. Expert skiers know when and how to ride conservatively and can basically ride anything in any conditions “safely” (even if that means just sliding a firm patch rather than carving it), as long as they’re aware of the limitations of their gear. 90% of the year I ride pow skis in any conditions (including melt freeze etc) with super dull edges - it’s totally fine. The other 10% is just to have a little more fun on very firm days.

Intermediates, on the other hand, will be overly aggressive beyond their capabilities. They’ll bounce their helmet off a melt-frozen knoll at first opportunity, similar to what you said!

bamboozled
1 replies
1d19h

What I didn't really like about he parents comment is that it seems kind of "lazy" not to do your edges. My wife broker her arm recently when a kid fell over in front of her and she couldn't stop quickly. On steep icy terrain this is a concern. That was my true "fly off a cliff edge" example.

The comment seemed like a "I don't wear a helmet because it's uncool" sort of thing...just do your edges occasionally, what's the issue?

denhaus
0 replies
1d

Well I did as a racer and still do on my firm snow skis. But there is a slight performance trade off depending on what kind of skiing you like to do. I keep my edges on my pow skis dull because it’s slightly easier to slash and dash in crud and makes very little difference on icy terrain. For fully cambered directional skis being ridden very aggressively, it would make more of a difference. Every once in a while i’ll do the edges on my firm snow skis though if I’m bored, since a few years ago I bought a full diamond edge tuning kit and feel like I need to get some use out of it.

Point being, I’ve never found sharp edges matter much for most recreational riding. None of this has any relation to being uncool. Maybe in your wifes scenario, having razor sharp edges would have saved her from breaking her arm; almost certainly not.

aeyes
2 replies
2d11h

It's easier on fat skis which haven't been waxed in a long time. They aren't as fast so I rarely have to really put them on the edge on ice. I do a slide turn while keeping as much contact with the surface as I can.

That's also the biggest downside, you can't really rip it with fat skis. Not even if you go down dead straight.

swader999
0 replies
2d10h

Fat skis put a lot of torque on the knees on ice if they are properly tuned and your carving in a high G turn. It's the wrong tool for that job, best to just slide around and chill like you mentioned.

denhaus
0 replies
2d9h

On most firm conditions, I absolutely think you can rip it on fat skis with awful edges. Especially on groomers. I do it every year on 120mm waist skis. It is highly dependent on skill level. For an example, watch freestylers carve switch down some rock-solid melt frozen 45deg park feature on detuned $200 skis they picked up at a swap meet 8 years ago. The result is much more dependent on the rider, not the equipment. I’ve watched pro dudes rip harder than 99.999% of skiers on joke trash skis from the 90s (rusting, holes in the base, chunks missing from edges) and broken snowblades.

On true ice, NO ONE is ripping it except racers or ex-racers with good equipment.

fragmede
1 replies
2d11h

Yeah but the whole way down you're saying to yourself "I shouldnta have that last drink" because you coulda made it home in time, instead of blaming your tools, unless you're a bad craftsman.

bamboozled
0 replies
1d20h

Good craftsmen drink beer.

cmrdporcupine
4 replies
2d7h

Ski here in the northeast or midwest and on the ice we get? You're going to want sharp edges.

ptero
1 replies
2d4h

I ski mostly in the Northeast and my old, unsharpened skis work just fine for me. I don't ski double blacks now (for the knees that feel it much more than 30 years ago) but I am doing just fine on single blacks and below.

Do I ever wish for a sharp edge when I occasionally end up on an icy plate scrubbed by snowboarders at the end of the day? Yes. But so rarely, that I never care enough to actually sharpen them.

cmrdporcupine
0 replies
2d4h

I started skiing before there were ever snowboarders, and let me tell you that slopes were just as scraped out then as now. Probably worse as groomers and snowmaking weren't as competent.

SailToSki
1 replies
2d5h

I grew up in Maine skiing at Sunday River but spent my entire childhood in the park never once cared about my edges. Had I been in the pipe, maybe a different story.

cmrdporcupine
0 replies
2d4h

Edges are not... what you want in the park. Hence Armada and others making literally edgeless skiers for park rats.

Making your way down free ride or even groomed terrain at Tremblant or Whiteface etc after a typical northeastern rain->refreeze cycle... Nice sharp metal edges are a godsend.

jtnielsen
2 replies
2d11h

I detuned my edges under the boot area when I was younger and only focused on park skiing. Catching an edge on a box or rail was a fear I had. Never tuned the edges on any of my twin tips. I did wax them though!

swader999
1 replies
2d11h

There's times in a pipe where you'll want grip on the ice there. You'll use a one degree base bevel to prevent hooking. If you ride metal rails though, I give up trying to discuss tuning.

jtnielsen
0 replies
2d10h

You are right! Pipe is a different discipline where you actually want an edge.

swader999
0 replies
2d11h

For park or intermediate on ice, I would still give them a decent tune but use a one degree base bevel, that'll rarely hook but give a lot of confidence on ice.

oldandboring
29 replies
2d5h

Former junior and Masters racer here. Glad to see there's some very qualified voices in these comments, including a few who are currently involved (as racing parents). I very much appreciate the level of technical detail and accuracy in those comments. I'll talk base bevels all day.

Pretty much agree with everything those folks have written. Most definitely sharp edges, and your bevels, matter when you are really pushing it, especially if you are racing, and most especially if you are on extremely hard or even water-injected snow.

Outside of that type of skiing, the ski tech on the lift was, I think, making a point that is true enough for most "normie" skiers, and inadvertently the blog author validated it with the microscope experiment. The short version is that once your edge angles are set, "polishing" them with a diamond stone should, generally, mostly, be all that is necessary to restore the edge shape after use. No filing should be necessary. If the edge get damaged with rocks or rust, this is no longer true. All caveats apply. The ski tech is just trying to say "don't pay a shop to run your skis through the machine when all you need is to rub your edges with a diamond stone for a minute."

Now, just how practical this is, again depends on who you are. You'd have to be:

- A regular enough skier to own your own equipment

- Good enough to benefit from a tuned edge

- Technical and handy enough to buy a diamond stone and learn to use it

- It has to not be impractical to go through this ritual after skiing (try doing this with two or three young, tired kids in tow)

Anyway I just enjoyed having this be on the front page of HN today. I'm good at like 2 things and this is one of them.

jcgrillo
6 replies
2d4h

Another important tuning dimension is base structure. I never realized the impact of base structure until I got a GS board that had been ground with a very aggressive base. That thing absolutely flies on wet snow.

abakker
3 replies
2d3h

A fellow hardbooter? I feel like the base size on snowboards benefits even more from good tuning than a lot of narrow race skis. And, obviously, you only have 1 edge instead of two, so the load on the edge is bigger.

apropos of this discussion, my main board probably never gets a serious tune now that I live in the rockies. back in VT, it was critical daily maintenance due to the amount of ice you actually encountered.

jcgrillo
2 replies
2d1h

Yeah current setup is Tanker 201, Upz RC11s, and F2 race bindings. I also have an F2 GS board with these awesome big rubber riser plates and F2 bindings as well but I don't ride it very often as I can carve the Tanker much tighter and slower, which as you know is important on narrow, icy east coast trails

abakker
1 replies
1d22h

Haha, another PSR/Eric Brammer student maybe? I'm also on a tanker 200, F2 race TIs and an older pair of Deelux Track 325s. I keep waiting for a good deal on an f2 silberfeil or a not very aggressive Donek Axis to come up for sale.

jcgrillo
0 replies
1d21h

No I'm not familiar with those two, I'm self-taught mostly from reading stuff online and watching racers practice. I skied for 8 years or so before snowboarding (I believe I started around 2001?) so carving the board has always been kind of natural for me once I got past the whole two feet stuck down thing.

swader999
1 replies
2d3h

Yes, structure adds more speed than wax does, especially on wet snow and in speed events. Wax makes the ski easier to turn though.

jcgrillo
0 replies
2d1h

The most important thing with wax is to brush it all out of the base structure, otherwise you basically just have a flat wax base. I went years (maybe 10?) before I learned that scraping alone wasn't enough. I used to think brushing was like a small optimization that you'd only do if you're racing, but it actually makes a tremendous difference.

stephencanon
5 replies
2d4h

It has to not be impractical to go through this ritual after skiing (try doing this with two or three young, tired kids in tow)

Anecdotally I do all the routine waxing and edge maintenance on my family's (wife and two kids) skis, and it's not that big a deal. Slightly less of a hassle than bringing gear to the shop to do it would be for me, and the kids enjoy hanging out with some hot cocoa and helping a bit. Once you have everything in your workspace set up right, it goes pretty fast.

anytime5704
4 replies
2d3h

Once you have everything in your airspace set up…

The great filter of self-maintaining ski equipment.

I don’t have the space for a permanent setup and it’s just more convenient to drag the skis to the store once a year than buy the equipment, learn to use it, store it somewhere, remember where, etc.

I imagine many others (most?) feel the same.

burningChrome
2 replies
2d1h

> it’s just more convenient to drag the skis to the store once a year

I agree.

I've been skiing and snowboarding for over 30 years. I used to tune my skis and board religiously myself. Once I got married and had a few kids, it got cumbersome to tune my board, then two to three additional pairs of skis. Then I went back to just tuning mine and realized how much of a mess it makes and how time consuming it can be.

When I was younger, I loved doing it because it was a sort of a 'zen' process for me to lose myself for an hour or so and the idea of tuning my board like a pro and having to live with the results, for better or worse I always thought was cool. The idea of telling people you knew how to do this and you were really good at it also was apart of the mystique of being able to do it.

Now? I just take my stuff to a shop where I know the guys and they do a bang up job for me. Saves me the time and the people I ride with don't give a hoot whether I can tune my board, they just want to know if I can still ride those double black D's with them.

trogdor
0 replies
1d22h

I loved doing it because it was a sort of a 'zen' process for me to lose myself for an hour or so and the idea of tuning my board like a pro and having to live with the results, for better or worse I always thought was cool

Your comment reminds me of gun cleaning. Most modern firearms require little more than occasional lubrication. Despite that reality, many gun owners thoroughly clean their guns after every trip to the range. Probably for similar reasons to those you describe.

cmrdporcupine
0 replies
2d

The funny thing is that I started tuning our own equipment because of the kids. It's just too much $$ to be getting all 4 sets (and multiple in my case because I have GAS) tuned regularly. It's too much $$ and hassle to be dragging them off to the shop all the time and then waiting to get them back.

Plus, I have had to learn to mount my own bindings because I telemark, and the local shops around here won't touch it, warranty it, or do a decent job. That alone has made me "fear" ski tech a lot less.

A lot of bullshit mystique set up by "pro" ski shops....

swader999
0 replies
2d3h

Yes, I only tune my U12 kids skis religiously. My own skis, wife's and my other retired ski racer kid get far less tuning attention. I'm at a resort that is mostly soft snow too.

pmart123
4 replies
2d1h

I'm no expert in this, but I think one common misconception among regular skiers is that a ski tune is "free" rather than each ski only gets so many full tunes as it wears down the base and edges. Obviously, if you get a core shot or something like that, it becomes more necessary. I always understood waxing skis as more protective though?

emgeee
3 replies
2d1h

Could definitely be wrong but I always thought waxing was about reducing the friction between the ski and the snow by both creating a uniform surface and because the wax has a lower coefficient of friction than the plastic of the skis.

edit: learned something new!

jcgrillo
2 replies
2d1h

A uniform surface is actually not ideal, as it causes a lot of suction between the base and the snow, that's why ski and snowboard bases have "structure" ground into them with a stone grinder--that's what getting a base grind does, it restores the base's structure.

Hot waxing permeates the pores in the ptex with oils from the wax, but you really want to scrape and brush it all off--there shouldn't be any residual wax remaining after.

thereisnospork
1 replies
2d

but you really want to scrape and brush it all off--there shouldn't be any residual wax remaining after.

I for one have always been a proponent of the lazy-man approach of letting the mountain do the scraping. Avoids the messiest part of the job. Sure the first run or two will be a touch slower, but unless you are serious enough to have a dedicated pair of race skis to schlep to the start, you aren't going to have a pristine base anyway.

jcgrillo
0 replies
2d

I used to just scrape (no brushing) and let the first few runs do the work but then at some point I started brushing and realized that it made a big difference. I think what was happening (could be checked with the author's microscope) was the snow was wearing off the wax on the lands of the base structure but the grooves still had at least some wax--so it was essentially forming a less sharply structured base.

SkyPuncher
4 replies
2d2h

One thing the conversation seems to be missing is rocks and handling.

Rocks are mostly an off-piste issue, but I have seen it happen on piste. Especially early and last season when cover can be low. Will occasionally also happen near the lift when a spot gets warn low. When I get rock gashes, it's always easier to just send them to the shop's machine.

Handling also introduces a fair amount of nicks. In theory, the edges should never meet at an awkward angle, but it happens. Skis slide around on the rack, skis flip out a position while carrying them, things shift in the car, etc, etc.

FredFS456
1 replies
1d23h

Use ski straps, especially the type which has a rubber end that you can stick in between the skis. It prevents them from scissoring, which is harmful for both the edges and the base.

SkyPuncher
0 replies
1d22h

I tend to forget them. However, in my case, I'm basically skiing rocks every time I'm out. Tools, not jewels.

oldandboring
0 replies
2d2h

I addressed this when I wrote,

If the edge get damaged with rocks or rust, this is no longer true.
erikpukinskis
0 replies
1d23h

Rocks are mostly an off-piste issue

*laughs in East Coast*

swader999
2 replies
2d4h

Nice clarification about the polishing once you have it setup. This is fairly quick to do too.

oldandboring
1 replies
2d4h

Believe it or not, as a junior I had the hardest time believing this. We'd be down in the waxroom filing our edges to death every other day and it would feel like I couldn't get an edge otherwise. The idea that the edge could be "polished" back to sharpness was alien to me. That being said, on skinny skis in the 90s, it took a lot of work to set an edge and little kids were at a disadvantage. I was basically skidding around and the sharp edges were just keeping it at bay.

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

For super G or WC downhill skis, they barely have enough edge. The techs at these levels probably don't file at all, maybe one time per pair.

datavirtue
1 replies
2d4h

Same with cycling. When I lose enough weight and get so fast that I have to change my clothes to get faster, then I will clip in if I need to win a race.

npsimons
0 replies
23h47m

Most definitely sharp edges, and your bevels, matter when you are really pushing it, especially if you are racing, and most especially if you are on extremely hard or even water-injected snow.

I have to ask, as someone into alpine touring and ski mountaineering (but not racing), what difference would backcountry skiing make to this advice? I imagine you'd need sharpening more often, due to twin factors of A) more rock and hard ice and B) really wanting that control on ungroomed (ie, icy) slopes at high angles.

I don't consider myself "really pushing it", but would like to have every ounce of control I can get when heading downhill. I'm enough of a beginner that I will often side-slip or even just hike completely down a slope I don't like the looks of.

troupo
19 replies
2d13h

Yes, the edge does get blunt. And you can notice it in close up photos. However, does it get blunt enough to affect performance?

After all, it's not like a knife trying to cut through a piece of meat

huskdigselv
5 replies
2d3h

I have been an Austrian trained ski instructor since 2012 and I can tell you that a sharp ski is essential if you want to have carve in any conditions below where the snow isn't slushing or soft. I.e. any run that is either early day, windblown, mid-season (generally colder) or shadow side.

HOWEVER 99% of the skiers on a mountain (and yes I mean 99%) do not actually ski on their edges, they do skidded turns (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4hioJ4ThJA). And the same 99% will typically just slide off of hard and icy parts of a slope as they aren't comfortably riding their edge. To these people sharp edges matter, but less than to the few who successfully carve.

But if you are within that 1% of skiers that do ski mostly on the edge, then a sharp edge is extremely important; you see true carving technique is a delicate skill:

In order to carve properly you need to need to get your skis in a steep angle with the snow, which means you need to get your feet in a steep angle, which can only be maintained if you move your center of gravity into a position that isn't above your feet. Which effectively means your body is in a position that is out of balance. Similarly to how sprinting essentially is just leaning forwards and playing "catch up" with our legs, carving technique tries to do the same. Exception being that we use the rhythmical centripetal forces of turns and the resistance of the snow to create the balancing force (https://d3t7modobimpp4.cloudfront.net/uploads/_1200xAUTO_fit...).

And this is why edges matter; because if the centripetal force provided from the carving turn isn't generated because the skis blunt edges cause them to slip, then instead of generating movement towards the skiers body (reestablishing balance), the skis will drift away from the skiers body (removing balance) resulting in poor turns if not slipping down onto ones hip.

TL;DR: Very good skiers NEED sharp edges to ski well. Most skiers will be fine. (As a matter of fact I think 99% of all skiers will do just fine on ANY ski, and make more significant improvement from 2 days of ski school than any equipment upgrade or tuning that money can buy).

trompetenaccoun
3 replies
2d1h

and yes I mean 99%

In which country? I thought carving was relatively popular with locals in the Alps (Switzerland, Austria, etc). At least it looks like that's what they're doing to me, but maybe they still do it wrong.

Zironic
1 replies
1d9h

Carving is extremely popular in Alpine skiing. The thing to keep in mind though is that a perfect carve on a perfectly sharp ski means you are literally ice-skating downhill. That means you will go very very fast, much faster then most people are comfortable with on the harder slopes.

So what people do is instead of carving perfectly, they deliberately slip to create some friction and slow themselves down.

npsimons
0 replies
23h51m

So what people do is instead of carving perfectly, they deliberately slip to create some friction and slow themselves down.

As an amateur alpine tourist who is deathly afraid of that feeling of "loss of control" from incredible downhill speeds, this is exactly what I do.

That said, I'm here reading because I want to know if the heuristic for sharpening changes when A) one is mostly off-piste (rock, hard ice, etc) and B) really want those edges sharp for ungroomed (ie, icy) slopes.

huskdigselv
0 replies
1d6h

I have skied in USA, Sweden, Norway, Austria, France, Germany, South Africa, Switzerland, Italy and Canada, and honestly only a small percentage of people actually know how to carve. The exceptions are mostly the kids/adults that have done racing or the intermediate ski instructors.

The truth is that carving technique is just very difficult and more importantly counter intuitive and thus people simply do not learn it on their own as they stop doing ski lessons once they can skid steer, as to many they think this is the same as carving.

swader999
0 replies
2d3h

I aggre with this and boots are 90 percent the secret to progress.

You could teach a beginner how to carve on a very flat slope though. The 99 percent that slide are just on too steep of a slope for their carving ability. Which is fine by the way. It's fun to go down steeper runs, even if you arent carving.

tw04
4 replies
2d13h

Try taking a slice out of a block of ice with a butter knife. Try again with a sharp butchers blade.

The difference is quite pronounced.

creato
3 replies
2d12h

The question is whether this is a good model for an actual ski on ice. What you describe might be a good model for an absolutely perfect carve, but that basically never happens in reality. When it does, it’s on softer snow where the tuned corner of the edge is a negligible part of the overall interaction with the snow.

I agree with the quoted skier in the post, tuning skis doesn’t matter. I am someone who puts 400+ days on one pair of skis before replacing them, I ski pretty rough terrain and hit my share of rocks, I’ve gotten maybe 3 ski tuneups in my life, I couldn’t tell the difference after any of them. The only things I did to care for them was to store them dry and wax them once per season.

djtango
2 replies
2d12h

Other people are reporting that they can feel it with ice. Do you ski much on ice?

creato
1 replies
2d11h

I’ve certainly skied ice and all kinds of crust.

In my experience true ice isn’t that bad in terms of grip, it’s rarely so smooth that edges can’t easily grip on surface imperfections. It’s not fun to ski because it’s very high impact.

I think what most people talk about as icy and slippery that seems to form on skied off groomers is actually some kind of crust that is hard to get edge hold in because the snow is somehow very firm but not well bonded to itself either, so what little edge penetration you get just scrapes off easily and doesn’t support the ski. When I try to picture what is going on in such snow, edge sharpness doesn’t matter, you might penetrate marginally deeper but that just means you’re scraping marginally more snow off.

AtlasBarfed
0 replies
2d

Yeah the East Coast is often nothing but the base ice pack with some snow on top to make it more slippery.

ReleaseCandidat
4 replies
2d13h

does it get blunt enough to affect performance

Edges matter on ice. And yes, the difference is noticable (if the edga has been blunt "enough").

vlovich123
3 replies
2d13h

How frequently do you need to tune? I usually only tune at the beginning of each season. Does tuning also prolong the longevity of the board? This article doesn’t seem to address that.

jcgrillo
1 replies
2d5h

I do edges every day (usually just a few passes with a fine stone and a light deburring with gummy stone), base wax as required by the conditions.

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

Yes, this kind of maintenance is quick to do and a best practice once you've setup the angles. Then you hit a rock and cry.

swader999
0 replies
2d12h

Filing edges and base grinding cuts material away so it shortens the life. Not a huge concern though. Racers typically wax and tune edges every 10-20 runs.

Recreationally, if you are on a narrow groomer type ski on icy runs, every few days is great and will help you enjoy and improve faster. Well fitted ski boots are more critical though.

Xylakant
1 replies
2d13h

On hard packed snow and ice, the difference is pretty stark. On softer snow or powder, the difference is substantially less noticeable.

0wis
0 replies
2d12h

As the author said, in icy conditions it changes the day from scary to fun

jval43
0 replies
2d12h

It doesn't just affect performance, blunt edges make skiing down icy patches impossible. The effect is so pronounced that if you do enough skiing in a day you'll notice a difference even at the end of that day.

The effect of a newly sharpened ski is noticeable immediately even if you're an absolute beginner. Even moreso if you're on a snowboard.

Source: 30 years of skiing and snowboarding.

IsTom
7 replies
2d8h

Snow and ice are quite abrasive stuff

Per wiki ice has mohs hardness of 2 to 4 depending on temperature and if it has fallen out of the sky I guess it shouldn't be mixed with sand or other abrasives.

How is it abrasive then?

chrisandchris
3 replies
2d7h

That assumes that most of the snow is actually fallen from the sky.

In central european ski resorts, largest parts of ski lopes are not natural snow anymore (or are mostly mixed natural/artificial). And artificial snow has far more sharp crystals than natural snow.

IsTom
2 replies
2d7h

Shape doesn't matter what the shape is if it's softer than the other material, you can't scratch glass with chalk no matter the shape of it.

swader999
0 replies
2d3h

I think at a microscopic level, the sharp knife edge on your ski will become rounded after a few runs on ice just from the force involved. You are right, it has little to do with the nature of the snow crystals.

abakker
0 replies
2d3h

minerals in the snow / wind blown grit / rocks / banging around in the ski rack, the lift line, hitting poles, etc.

You're right. Snow isn't hard enough, but, it's probably a mistake to assume it's just snow.

snthd
0 replies
2d1h

Above -37, Snow needs particulates to form.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sci...

The most important type of ice nuclei is mineral dusts blown into the atmosphere from deserts, arid lands, and agricultural fields. The International Mineralogical Association (IMA) defines minerals as naturally occurring solid substances formed in geological processes.

IIRC snow makers use particulates too.

snowwrestler
0 replies
1d23h

Moh's scale is useful for field identification of minerals. It's not really useful as an all-purpose predictor of durability.

Pressure is a huge variable. In a typical Moh's test, there is very little: just a person rubbing two stones together by hand. But with enough pressure, liquid water (hardness: none) can cut steel. Lead can damage steel or quartz if fired out of a gun. Etc.

And as others have mentioned, snow might have particles of other materials in it as well. But just to be clear: Moh's scale does not mean that pure ice could never abrade steel.

mjhay
0 replies
2d4h

My guess is two things:

1. All snow has some level of particulates, especially older snow (moreso if there has been melting, because the particles/dirt/whatever concentrate on top).

2. Cornering on piste would put pretty big stresses on the tip of the edge. This could perhaps cause the edge to bend and curl, or even break little pieces off from metal fatigue. I think this would be a bigger deal in most winter skiing conditions.

MandieD
6 replies
2d11h

If you’re a weekend warrior like me, for whom 20 days is a fantastic season, the binding release check that your shop should be doing as part of your ski service is probably the most important part, especially as your skis get older.

I had to stop using my beloved “ice cutters” because one of the bindings failed to release in the shop. Up to that point, I had rarely been disappointed by them releasing too easily, and always relieved when they did release.

Make sure that they use one of your boots for the test.

swader999
4 replies
2d11h

Twenty days is still pretty serious, $1500 for a pass or $150 for a day ticket, gas, gear etc. So pay for at least one tune per year, maybe even three if you ski groomers with groomer type skis a lot.

An effective way to test your bindings - put your skis on at a flat area and with boots done up, dig your edge in and try to twist your boot out of the ski binding with your own muscular power. It will hurt a bit and be hard to do, but if you can't, you need to lower your din.

burkaman
3 replies
2d4h

FYI, $1500 is very expensive for a pass and $150 for a day trip is incredibly cheap these days. You can get an Ikon/Epic pass for under $1000, and you should if you're going to ski more than a few days because even east coast mountains are charging $200+ just for the day pass.

trogdor
1 replies
1d14h

You can get an Ikon/Epic pass for under $1000

Not anymore, you can’t.

Epic is $1004. Ikon is $1359.

burkaman
0 replies
1d4h

Fair, I was looking at the Ikon Base Pass but yeah if you want the big one it's a lot more

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

Yep, I'm quoting Trudeau bucks. I think I paid 2,000 cad for a family pass next season.

te_chris
0 replies
2d5h

I'll take 20 days! Sounds amazing. Generally get a week in a year - but in the Alps, so pretty good.

m463
5 replies
2d12h

I have to wonder...

The article shows edges and the effect of sharpening.

However, I would imagine corrosion makes much of the surface of the ski more abrasive and that could explain the grabbiness.

Is there any science behind the edge assertions? almost all of it is anecdotal.

I can't help but think of overengineering and a/v systems.

For example, I can't tell any difference from different speaker wires (except bad cables), but I do notice hiss in amplifiers. And I think OLED might be superior, but honestly dark scenes are horrible during daylight hours unless you have blackout curtains in the room with the panel. No review or marketing ever talks about these practical details. Same with reflections with glossy screens.

swader999
4 replies
2d11h

You will see rust on your edges if you leave them wet and don't wipe them off. It can be removed with a soft gummy stone. A thick layer of wax left on the skis and edges keeps them rust free over the summer. Typically done for race skis or higher end skis.

I don't worry about corrosion much, but I'm tuning the skis I use on ice every couple of days.

My powder skis get waxed every few days, edges only to set up the angles once. Maybe once a season after that or to fix as best I can when hitting rocks.

jajko
3 replies
2d11h

Edges makes bigger difference in ski touring or more appropriately ski alpinism. Meaning tricky steep slopes where you sometimes switch skis for crampons and ice axe and put them on backpack, wildly varying conditions on the slopes. Or using ski crampons when its less extreme.

There, any advantage is very important, ie how precisely you put skins on skis to leave that little bit of edge for... edging, at least thats what we call it. I don't think it makes a massive difference there how sharp your edges are, but in steep icy/crusty slopes where your skis don't even leave a mark as you pass, only crampons a bit, everything helping is more than welcome. I never clean them thoroughly though so edges are rusty, 10-15 years of moderate use of skis makes no difference to me.

Also, in usual piste skiing in resorts, if you go really fast, at least relative to rest of skiers, and slope is a bit icy, sharp edges make a lot of difference in how stable skis are in turns. There even I can feel difference between dulled and sharpened ones.

JumpCrisscross
2 replies
2d7h

Edges makes bigger difference in ski touring or more appropriately ski alpinism

East Coast? I’m a Rocky Mountain skinner and I can’t remember the last time I edged off piste.

jajko
0 replies
1d23h

More like Mont Blanc ski ascent in my case... no room for mistakes on steeper slopes

cbrozefsky
0 replies
2d3h

East coast touring…. Edges are nice even traversing on piste when you going up after the lifts have closed and the machined dust has been scraped off the hardpack. Also the one time a flexy ski is better on ice, when you gotta traverse a bumped out section…

Also have backcountry nordic pair with metal edges for similiar reason — tho i only debur them, never sharpened.

On piste skinning is mostly because it’s where the snow is until the back country fills in later in the season.

_huayra_
5 replies
2d13h

My rule of thumb is to get the edges tuned once a season (I clock ~40 days), usually after the last of the rocks is covered up by the initial snow. If one skis less than that, it's possible to get away with every other season, but keep a gummy stone to deburr the edges as needed.

If anyone has any methods to reliably grind edges at home, I'd be interested. I have one of the edge tools and a bunch of files, but I basically destroyed a pair of skis (thankfully an old crummy pair, put to new use as part of an adirondack chair built from my busted skis) when trying to get it right. Considering a local shop will do it for $40 / pair, that seems like a better use of my time. Still, I've got that DIY itch to scratch about this and haven't seemed to get it right.

matsemann
2 replies
2d10h

Not sure how you managed to destroy a pair of skis? It's mainly just to clamp the file onto a metal piece with the correct angle and grind away. Normally I put pen marks every few cms on the edge before I begin, then all those should disappear and I know I've grinded about the same all places.

Or with a tool like Swix TA3008 it's hard to do wrong. Maybe need someone to set up the base angles, but then you can use it to touch up for years.

esel2k
1 replies
2d9h

How would one know the base angles I have currently?

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

There's tools that can measure them. A low end is just a piece of metal that fits the edge with no light coming through. You can use a true bar and look with a loop or magnifying glass.

Check out this tool: https://www.sidecut.com/product/BEBM.html?Category_Code=base...

It's ridiculous how much you can spend on tuning gear.

svl7
1 replies
2d11h

A local shop might as well make things worse if they do not care too much and give your skis the standard treatment (e.g. different angle than before). Once you have a good edge, it's kind of similar as keeping a knife sharpened. No need to really grind every time, a fine polishing after skiing for a day is more than sufficient and makes your edges last a long time. Been using tools from here for 10+ years, they also have informative instructions: https://www.tooltonic.com/

Kon-Peki
0 replies
2d

kind of similar as keeping a knife sharpened.

Professional chefs get their knives sharpened once or twice a year, depending on how often they use them. They hone their knives before every use. The honing rod that comes with your knife set is there to realign the steel molecules along the blade edge. Sharpening your knife removes metal and creates a new blade edge, which you have to hone frequently for it to stay as sharp as you want it.

I wonder if the ski tech person was using terminology correctly but the skier/blogger didn't quite understand.

throwaway7285
3 replies
2d5h

So here's a silly question from someone who's never been near a...whatever you call a place where skiing is done. Skis have sharp edges? Why?

oldandboring
1 replies
2d5h

Because while snow is soft and fluffy when it first falls, after a few temperature changes and having been groomed and skied on for hours/days, it transforms from snow crystals to ice crystals. Unless new snow falls on top, that's what you're gonna be skiing on, and you'll slide all over the place without sharp edges.

Here is one of the best skiers in the world, on a race course set on a surface intentionally prepared to be solid ice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIHdHUg1FC4

swader999
0 replies
2d4h

Great clip. Courses are considered more fair the firmer it is. The track will stay more consistent for more of the field of racers if it is firm.

aredox
0 replies
2d5h

To dig into snow (and sometimes ice) to turn and/or brake.

Zigurd
3 replies
2d2h

Sports and folk knowledge have long been companions. I just saw an article about some teams running 25mm tires on the new gravel stage at the Tour de France because "25mm is fast." It doesn't help that elite athletes can be very opinionated about what is best for their performance, and they are so talented, fit, and well-trained they can perform well on deficient equipment.

AtlasBarfed
2 replies
2d

25 mm became Vogue and cycling because wind tunnel testing showed it was superior in aerodynamics combined with a new carbon clincher rims

If I recall correctly

Zigurd
1 replies
1d4h

My daily ride is an old race bike so 25mm is the widest that will fit between the chainstays. Also the widest that would not bulge out on old Mavic Ksyrium rims. If not for these questionable life choices I'd be on 30s. According to Continental, 28mm is the prevalent width for TDF teams.

AtlasBarfed
0 replies
1d2h

Oh right, I got confused, it might actually have been even bigger 28+mm on the TT bikes that was doing well in the wind tunnel testing.

25mm was the older "skinnier" size that was prevalent in the peloton, or even 23s or smaller.

I think it also became apparent that rolling resistance was reduced on wider tires, so if an aerodynamic (and weight) formula could be made to make 28mm viable, it was better.

Reason077
3 replies
2d11h

"Last winter, I rode a ski lift alongside a guy who claimed to be a retired Olympic ski tuner."

On another note, this is apparantely a high-risk occupation due to exposure to PFAS and other carcinogens in ski wax. The FIS recently banned the use of fluorinated wax in competitions, but it was the norm for many years. Not great to be a ski tuner breathing in all those heated/aerosolised PFAS compounds...

GuB-42
1 replies
1d21h

Are there studies that show that ski tuners are more susceptible to some specific diseases, and that it can be tied to particular chemicals, PFAS in particular.

That would be interesting, as all the worries about PFAS is more along the lines of "it may be bad, and if it is we are screwed as we have dumped so much of it in nature and it doesn't degrade", but concrete evidence is still lacking today.

Note that overheated PTFE is bad, but we are talking over 250°C, which is, I believe, way less than the temperatures used by ski tuners.

Reason077
0 replies
1d17h

I don't know if there are any specific studies of disease rates in ski technicians, or former ski technicians. But perfluorinated compounds are known to cause disease (including cancers) in animal studies, and blood studies have shown alarming levels in ski technicians, even months after the end of a season.

There are certainly cases in other industries (such as the Dupont factory workers) who have demonstrably high rates of disease from occupational exposure to PFAS.

The evidence was certainly compelling enough to convince the FIS to ban fluorinated wax, and from what I understand this ban is taken quite seriously. They have devices to check for fluorinated compounds on skis, and even the smallest trace of it can get you disqualified.

swader999
0 replies
2d10h

Yes, we used to wear a p100 respirator with those waxes. Many didn't. Can't purchase them any more and I'm glad because they were crazy expensive

baggachipz
2 replies
2d5h

Luckily, fixing this kind of damage isn’t hard. I use a 3D printed jig with a 500 grit diamond stone. A couple of glides down the edge is enough to completely clear this up.

I don't ski often enough to own my own skis, so I rent them. Having used those rentals in icy conditions, I've had a lousy time due to their shoddy edges. A tool like this would make my day(s) on the slopes so much better. Anybody know of a place I could buy something like this, so that I could bring the rentals into "serviceable" condition?

huskdigselv
1 replies
2d3h

A rental should be able to sharpen them if you address it. (And at least here in Europe all rentals sharpen their skis frequently enough).

A good tester is to see if the skis edge grips the surface of your finger nail, the same way you would test a knife or a sharp tool (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHEuV2CPE3w). If it slides across it with no friction, then it's a blunt ski.

Personally, I would advice against trying to tune skis manually, because you might just as easily blunt the edge as you might sharpen it if you don't have a good jig and tools.

Through my 12 years of teaching skiing, I will say that more often than not people who complain about icy conditions are held back by their technique; are you skid steering or carving, because when you are skid steering no level of ski tuning can make your edges stay on hard snow. (Tip: This guy has made an incredible amount of videos about the topic and has even himself progressed from being a skid steering freestyle skier to now being an excellent carver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwWFlltWQTU).

baggachipz
0 replies
2d1h

A fair point; my technique is... slightly less than stellar. Especially when I hit ice, I tend to panic and try to slow down however possible. So I'll pay attention to sharpness next time I rent, but blaming the equipment is a favorite pastime of mine (read: golf).

PcChip
2 replies
2d5h

TIL skis have metal edges on them

werdnapk
0 replies
2d5h

snowboards too

throwaway7285
0 replies
2d5h

...metal edges which apparently have to be sharpened from time to time, or not, as the case may be.

MisterTea
2 replies
2d4h

Sharp skis are necessary for good control otherwise you're just sliding around. Snow and Ice aren't the only things you ski over as there is a ton of dirt and other debris mixed in. Sometimes you get rocks and pebbles near trail edges. Heck, spring skiing will put you on trails with thin snow cover in addition to patches of grass and dirt that will destroy your skis (fun fact: hitting grass at speed is NOT fun - instant stop.)

My father was also of the opinion that wax was a scam as he stated it would likely wear off in the first few runs. The idea was it filled in the scratches on the ski bottoms leaving a flatter surface. Maybe it works. maybe it doesn't. I always enjoyed watching the guys in the ski shops apply it by taking a slice of wax and then using a clothes iron, melt it like a pat of butter along the bottom.

swader999
1 replies
2d3h

We could talk for pages about wax. Your father is partly right, it does wear off quickly, especially if you apply it correctly.

I'd say wax is important in that it prevents the base from oxidizing. A dried out base is more difficult to turn and slower.

Structure (small grooves in the base) will make you a second faster)

Wearing a race suit vs a normal tight coat will make you two seconds faster.

Proper setup edges vs no tune rounded edges will make you 5-6 seconds faster and with much lower chances of dsq.

The type of wax is much less important. In a slalom race, choosing the best wax vs a less perfect type might only improve you by 0.02 seconds on a sixty second long race.

MisterTea
0 replies
1d19h

I guess that was the issue, we were casual skiers who just enjoyed the runs so when they offered wax, it was of no use to us so may father refused. This was at the mountain ski shop so you know they pushed everything they could.

strstr
1 replies
2d11h

Unless you do your own tuning (or are willing to light money on fire) it’s hard to A/B test ski waxing/edge tuning. I kinda suspect this alleged olympic tuner didn’t cross compare, or just doesn’t ski in ways where you’d notice (he might just like skid turns through packed powder). Or he just uses backcountry noodles on groomed snow, and can’t tell since he’s using skis that won’t let him.

Going from dull edges (even “well maintained” ones) to freshly sharpened is quite noticeable on icy days. I use 0°/4° and like the responsiveness and grip.

From my long past race days (when I had to maintain several pairs simultaneously), I could tell that the wax design temp mattered deeply, though mostly >25f vs lower temp. High temp waxes are down right sticky in cold snow (and vice versa). But cold waxes are largely fine for middle temps (~10-20f or whatever). The (horrifying) fluoro stuff was also very effective, though probably banned by now if anyone is sane. I wasn’t able to tell the difference beyond the temp though, unless the skis were damaged. Though, I mostly just don’t wax these days since I’m not trying to eek out extra speed.

Base bevel (the angle trimmed off the metal edge from the side that sits on the snow) matters and is largely ignored by skiers/snowboarders, since tuners are cautious, and skiers don’t know to ask. It determines how responsive the skis are (going from 0° to 1° means you need to tilt your leg an extra degree). You can only decrease it (or clean it up) by flattening the entire base and then sharpening, which requires specialized equipment.

Edge bevel matters, but allegedly has diminishing returns. It (allegedly) gives a bit of extra grippyness. I’ve never quite understood why it matters, since it seems like it just narrows the metal very slightly. From my A/B testing, the freshness of the sharpening seems to matter more than the edge angle, but I’ve also never set it below 2°.

jcgrillo
0 replies
2d5h

Switching to more aggressive edge angles (1° base, 3° side from 0° base, 1° side) on my snowboard made a huge difference. I can lock in a carved turn much easier on ice and don't catch my tails or any other sketchiness in slow floating transitions across the board. I think most of the improvement is attributable to base bevel, and I agree with your assessment that freshness of sharpening is important. I hit my edges with a fine grit stone and a gummy stone every morning before heading out, and by afternoon they're noticeably more dull and hold less well. One test you can do to measure this is to drag the top of your fingernail across the edge in a perpendicular manner. If the edge is sharp it'll shave a little ribbon of fingernail off, if it isn't it won't. I only ever use a file to change angles or if I need to take a bunch of material off to fix a large rock gouge (like something that would require also ptex repair). I ride a Tanker 201 with Upz hardboots and F2 plates.

skiexperte
1 replies
2d1h

Its a shitty article.

Just looking at your skies and seeing an 'issue' doesn't tell you anything besides the fact that yes something had fun with that edge.

Questions which are completly unanswered: How long does a sharp edge actually stay as it is? If it looks like this after 5 minutes, it doesn't matter.

It also doesn't say if it was snow, ice or stones/ground killing that edge.

And as far as i remember, he didn't say anything regarding the waxing.

trompetenaccoun
0 replies
2d1h

If you keep your skis dry between days out they’ll stay sharp for their entire lifetime. Don’t get him started on waxing. His specific claim was that skis get blunt from corrosion, and all you have to do is keep them dry.

Stopped reading around there. He actually took a microscope to verify what should be common sense for anyone with a basic understanding of physics. And then didn't even do it properly like you point out.

Is it only my perception or are people getting more gullible/stupid? It's something I notice more and more, someone says something obviously ridiculous but instead of dismissing it and filing the person under 'nutter', my feeling is more and more misinformation is taken serious or at least considered as potentially true. Or maybe it's an increasing lack of social skills? Maybe there's a decreasing understanding of the fact that the chance of running into a random guy telling tall tales, being misinformed or outright crazy is high when you're out somewhere with hundreds of people.

tim333
0 replies
2d6h

My skis used to hit a variety of rocks, dirt, grit and bits of metal. Even on clean looking snow there are probably bits of grit occasionally. I'm not sure pure snow would wear the steel edges significantly?

paddy_m
0 replies
2d

I'm in a ski share house in the northeast. Last winter I organized a ski tuning clinic put on by the local ski shop that does race tunes. I thought that only the expert nerdy skiers in the house would be interested, but everyone was fascinated. Most of the attendees won't tune their own skis, but they will know what to look for in their skis, and when to take them in.

Also, in the north east, tuned skis absolutely matter, whatever level you are. My wife has been learning to ski and had trouble with ice. So I put on her beginner skis, and said, ahh no wonder, went back and tuned them. Then I put her on my slalom skis because she didn't trust her skis to initiate a turn (slalom skis are famously quick to initiate), and she could turn them quickly. Then I tuned one edge of each slalom ski with a more aggressive tune, but she could swap back to regular if she wanted. Finally, she was skidding her turns too much, so I put her on my GS skis, which forced her to patiently start the turn then follow it through. She now has a good idea of when she's having trouble with the ski shape, the conditions or the ski tune after 35 total days of skiing.

If you put a beginner or intermediate on race skis, make sure the tune is mellow enough. Slalom skis at 0.5 and 86, will hunt when not turning, and can grab an edge throwing you to the ground. At the steeper angles (86/87 vs 88/89) it is much harder to skid the ski for speed control. When you head out with a beginner, you can always bring a diamond stone and detune the tip/tail, on the mountain even. They will notice the difference and appreciate it.

hoosieree
0 replies
2d

As an amateur woodworker, this is not changing my belief that a $50 USB microscope is one of the most expensive things a hobbyist can buy.

gkanai
0 replies
2d10h

A lot depends on where you ski. If you're skiing in the Northeast US, where conditions are often icy, then yes tuning matters a great deal. If you race, or want precision in your turns, then tuning is important.

If you're a powder hound in Utah or Niseko, then it matters a lot less.

devonsolomon
0 replies
2d4h

Always good to see a ‘.co.za’ :)

actionfromafar
0 replies
2d8h

Towel definitely does.

HarHarVeryFunny
0 replies
2d3h

As a US east/ice coast skier, I can say yes, skis do get blunt, and it makes a big difference. If you need to grip on ice you need sharp edges.